The severe cut and dark green felt are reminiscent of the military. The lining oozes out like guts. The shiny trim with its somber ornamentation has also migrated to the outside. Every now and then McQueen reached into the colonial mothballs to play with insignia of the Empire. He was not the only one as this game shaped the multicultural London club scene of the 1980s, which in turn had a decisive influence on the fashion designer.